FIRE BALL TOOLS INSTALL

Inspect the crankshaft pin with a micrometer.Needle roller bearing - the rollers are not captured by the bearing cage and will fall out when the bearing is removed from pin.Utilize a crankshaft pressing fixture to press one half of the crankshaft apart.The following procedure requires a specialized tool the procedure to arrive at the expected result should be dictated by that tool's instructions. Pull as evenly as possible on opposing sides of the crankcase, to prevent binding.Use a non-marring hammer at first to break the sealant: hammer on the crankcase joint until a visible gap emerges.Remove the eight button head allen bolts from the left half of the crankcase.Īt this point the crankcase isn't fixed together by bolts, but will require some coercion to split apart there are studs locating each half, and sealant between the gap.If you have not already removed the engine from the engine mount, you must do before proceeding. Remove any gaskets still attached to the crankcase.Remove the four 10mm nuts surrounding the flange that the carburetor is mounted to.Remove the ignition rotor - be advised that there is a Woodruff key captured between the shaft and the ignition rotor.

FIRE BALL TOOLS INSTALL

Install your ignition rotor removal tool.

Note: The ignition rotor does not require the ignition coil/ignition sensor to be removed.

Remove the clutch - it may take quite a considerable amount of torque on the tool.

Install your clutch removal tool - it is advisable to add a dab of grease or oil to the end of the crankshaft, and the tip of the pin inside the clutch puller tool.

Gently slide the clutch drum and needle bearing off of the crankshaft - the needle rollers are captured in the cage and shouldn't spill out.

Install a clutch removal tool or other specialized tool to enable locking of the crankshaft.

Pull upward on the jug - you will notice the piston sliding downward - have your hand underneath to catch the piston and rod from banging into the crankcase.

Pull the exhaust outward from the studs.

Unhook the springs that wrap around the exhaust pipe.

Pull the head upward and off - it shouldn't give any resistance to removal.

Remove the nuts from the head - try to progressively unload the nuts instead of loosening each nut completely.

Remove the hose clamp from the head outlet.

VOC filtering mask - inhalation of hazardous chemicals.

Tactile work gloves - damage to hands and fingers from heavy equipment or tools.

Eye protection - splashes and flying parts.

The following items are recommended to reduce risks generally associated with the activities described in this manual.

Crank pin - Optional - Dependent on hours of use/condition.Ĭonsumable Materials.

Reed cage gaskets - Optional but highly recommended.

Jug base gasket - Optional but highly recommended.

O-rings for head - Optional but highly recommended.

Crankshaft pressing fixture (specialized tool).

Ignition rotor removal tool (specialized tool).

Metric hex head wrenches (sockets or other).

When replacing or addressing maintenance to these parts, this procedure is especially relevant. The following parts of the motor are qualified as 'bottom-end' parts:

A bottom end job is the most involved regular maintenance procedure required by the engine, and may not be a task suitable for the 'home mechanic' as many specialized tools are required. The bottom end of the engine requires periodic inspection and replacement when worn beyond allowable tolerances.

Fire ball tools